CONFAST1/2" x 7" Wedge Anchor Zinc Plated (Box of 25)

The 3/8" by 3" long anchors were easy to install, and they appeared to anchor well.I installed 16 additional anchors to better hold down 8 carport structure support-posts.I drilled the holes in the concrete with a 10mm (I did not have a 3/8" drill) carbide tipped drill bit, using a rotating hammer-drill (cuts concrete "like butter"), and used a squeeze-bulb to clean out the holes.I put a washer and nut on the anchor to avoid inserting the anchor too far, and hammered in the anchor. The outer end of the anchor seemed to be well designed to tolerate the considerable necessary hammering without substantial deforming.Finally, I tightened the nut with a ratchet-wrench, until I could tighten it no more.Note: Make sure that you drill deep enough before inserting the anchor, because you are unlikely to be able to remove the anchor. Yes, on my first anchor hole, I was concerned about drilling too deep. Apparently "too deep" is not a problem with these anchors, at least with a proper tight-fit in the hole.One flange was too close to the edge of the concrete piling, so I drilled one hole substantially off vertical into the piling and that appeared to get the expansion end of the anchor far enough from the side of the piling to tighten the anchor without cracking the concrete. The second hole, I drilled more noticably off vertical, which was probably even better.Overall, it was a success experience with a type of anchor that I had never used before, but would cheerfully use again. Instructions would have helped, but probably most users are not first-time users, like I was.

These are great anchors for wall bottom plates. I haven't cast wall anchors for years. I prefer these anchors over cast in place anchors because I don't have to try to figure out where my studs and plate splices are going to be when I'm pouring concrete. I can place them in the best position after the walls are in place. I generally drill a 1/2" hole through the wood and a 3/8" concrete drill into the concrete. The anchors have a reduced diameter extension on the end to prevent damaging the threads while setting. I slip on the washer and thread the nut just past the start of the thread then drive the anchor down hard with a hammer; then just a few turns to tighten the nut and the job is done. There is a significant savings in buying the box of 50 over the by-the-piece price at the hardware store.

They are always good

The wedge colar is fragile. I damaged one due to carelessness.Works great if you have a quality Hammer Drill. Not just an battery screwdriver with hammer drill setting. Used the anchors to install an 80 gal air compressor with three legs. The good hammer drill took 10-15 seconds to drill the 1/2 inch diameter hole to 2 1/4 inch depth. The instructions for seating the anchor were clear and simple. Worked great!

worked well, no problems.

Needed anchors for my shop construction. These worked perfectly and better than half the price at local hardware store. Highly recommend.

I use these as anchors with which to move granite boulders. I've had good luck with 3/8, 1/2 inch moving boulders up to 3T. Mostly dragging but in some cases moving up an incline. Tend to be a bit weak in shear, so insure that you tighten any lifting eye or bracket firmly. Torque specs are 30 ft lb for the 3/8 and 60 ft lb for 1/2 inch; I can't see how you could overtighten them.Do not allow persons or body parts to remain under the load when lifting hazardous items.

Set 24 of 25 and not one failed. Set in green concrete (at 7 Day break) then came back at 28 days and tightened to spec. Seller shipped fast and kept my project on schedule.